An Athenian Diary

43

Easter in Greece, at the American school

This year Easter fell on the same day in both the Orthodox and Catholic-Protestant calendars: April 11. But the Greek Orthodox celebrate the day in very different ways from other Christian churches, and the American School has its own holiday traditions. We tasted a little of both (one literally!) and share with you here a bit of the experience.

The real service for Easter for the Greeks takes place on Saturday night. The priests have been singing all day over at Moni Petraki (we can hear them through the open windows of our house), the monastery just around the corner. There's a little church there and a lovely garden, full now of sudden spring flowers. About 11.15 pm we put on our clothes -- after that struggle to stay up late enough! -- and head over. Already a couple of hundred people, including some kids, are gathered in the garden; the church itself is too crammed to get into. Inside, the priests continue to sing the story of Jesus's death and coming resurrection. Everyone holds a long taper (if you forgot to bring one, kids are selling them on the street outside; the Greeks have little cups that fit around the candle to catch dripping wax -- they think of everything). Suddenly, at midnight, the priests emerge from the church announcing the resurrection, candles are lit, and an old man with the strength of youth still in him yanks the ropes that set the bells clanging -- the lord has risen! Friends exchange kisses (none of that Vatican II kissing strangers for the Greeks!) and people begin to file out, headed home protecting their candles; for the next tradition is to make a cross above your doorway with the smoke. Unfortunately, our candles are pretty smokeless; we have to be satisfied with the protection afforded by last years' crosses and the best effort we can make, thanks to Alison.

The next day, Sunday, the American School held its traditional lamb roast picnic. The weather was beautiful -- bright, clear spring sky, warm enough for short sleeves and sandals. (I got a sunburn even though I was careful, I thought, always to perch under the shade of an olive tree.) The business starts by setting up the rotisserie on which turn two lambs that are basted regularly -- by Bob this year (as always, I imagine), one of the fixtures of the School (he is secretary now, and was so twenty years ago when we were here as callow students). Once the lambs are done they're added to the tables already groaning under dishes brought by all the attendees. And then, under the warm April sun, folks dine, talk, drink, play. The playground in the back of the garden, a recent addition the School owes to Mary Lee Coulson's love of kids, provides a perfect place for sand constructions, like a little waterless beach in the center of Athens.

April 000-000, 2004

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