he ancient city of Jerusalem - one of the most spiritual places I have ever been in. Despite the constant news that Jerusalem is a turbulent city ridden with violence, I was able to enjoy two peaceful weeks there in March of 1995. In many ways, Jerusalem is a safer place to be than most American cities. Although there are many political crimes, every day crimes such as mugging and murder seldom happen. It is safe to walk through most parts of the city and enjoy the different aspects of various cultures. Within each specific quarter, a sense of unity exists and the ancient ties to tradition are obvious.

One of the reasons Jerusalem is still so beautiful is the white rocks with which all the buildings are constructed. In fact, buildings are not allowed to be built with any other material. These white structures, against the usually clear blue sky, make Jerusalem an extremely aesthetically pleasing sight.

We bought our food in an outside marketplace, called the shook.. We feasted upon fresh pita and the tastiest humus I have ever had in my life. The streets were filled with vendors . Crafts ranged from exquisitely carved jewelry, to carpets, to beaded scarves, to pottery. At every turn, more and more people were offering us crazy bargains.

One of the most spectacular parts of Jerusalem is the Mount of Olives. Churches from just about every denomination are built there, including a gorgeous Russian Orthodox church.

Did Jesus really trek up this mountain? What a strange feeling to follow in His footsteps, past the garden of Gethsemane to the top, where an amazing view of the Dome of the Rock unfolds itself. This is the site where Isaac almost sacrificed Jacob, where Allah ascended to heaven.

On the way down, I returned to the ancient city through Damascus gate - the same way Jesus once did.

The ancient city is a blend of the old and the new. The contemporary conflicts facing Jerusalem were evident in much of the graffiti on the ancient walls.

Commercialism is rampant; While walking along the path of Christ's Calvary, I was shocked to find "The Fourth Station T-shirt Shop" on the right.

During my stay, I took a 24-hour road trip along the Dead Sea. We stopped at Masada and climbed a high desert mountain in the burning, high noon, Israeli sun. Masada - the home of a small Jewish community that chose to commit mass suicide rather than surrender to the Romans. The city was built on such a high mount that the Romans had to build a ramp to reach them. The Dead Sea could be seen in all its magnificence from the top.

In contrast to the torrential downpour that was going on in Ireland, the blue skies of Jerusalem were a true vision of beauty. I spent hours upon the roof of Hebrew University, enjoying the sun and looking over the entire magical city. No matter what deity or deities one worships, it is difficult to spend time in Jerusalem without getting a sense of the immense spirituality that flourishes in the city. It is no wonder that practically every religious denomination has staked a connection, in some way, to Jerusalem.

© Trincoll Journal, 1995.